Leo Blazer Sew Along

Finishing touches

5 — Attach Lining to Blazer and Finishing Touches

Posted
21—July 2022

Now it is time to join the two parts of your blazer together and do the finishing touches!

Leo Blazer Sew Along — 5 — Attach Lining to Blazer and Finishing Touches
Jul 21 2022
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First we will join the collar and under collar. With the right sides together, pin the collar and under collar together along the outer edge. Sew together with a 1cm seam.

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Press the seam towards the under collar. Keeping the seam allowance folded towards the under collar, pin the each end of the collar closed. Sew each end with a 1cm seam.

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Now we will join the lining to the blazer at the front edges.

With the right sides together, pin the facing to the front at the centre front edge and around the lower curved edge. Sew with a 1 cm seam.

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At the top lapel corner, fold the centre front seam allowance towards the front and pin to hold it in place. Pin the rest of the top lapel edge closed then sew it closed at 1cm.

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Clip in 1cm on the front and front facing at the notch where the collar ends.

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Clip in 1cm at the break point; the notch where the roll line meets the centre front.

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Trim the lower curved corner to 6mm. Take care not to cut too close to your stitching when clipping and trimming!

Repeat for the other side.

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Turn your blazer right side out with the help of a point turner if needed. We will now give it a press.

When pressing the collar, roll the seams towards the under collar. The shape of the pattern pieces and the steps in which the collar has been sewn will help with this.

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Working from the top, press the centre front gently rolling the seam out towards the front. When you reach the break point, press the seam in, towards the front facing. This will help to get the front sitting nicely, and make sure the seam is not visible when the collar and lapels are open.

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Turn your main blazer and lining inside out. Ensure your sleeve lining cuff is folded back as per the pre-pressing steps you made at the beginning and give it another press. Slide the sleeve lining inside the sleeve until the raw edge of the lining cuff meets the raw edge of the main coat cuff. Pin the raw cuff edges together matching the seams.

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Check that your sleeves are not twisted and then sew the cuff with a 1cm seam. You will sew through one layer of lining and one layer of main fabric. The fold of the lining will sit inside the sleeve.

Repeat for the second sleeve.

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With the coat still inside out, pin the seam allowances together where the collar and under collar meet the main blazer and lining. The wrong sides of the collar will be together. Sew the facing to the body within the seam allowance, to close up the collar.

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Now you will join the sleeve and sleeve lining at the front armhole.

Working inside your blazer, pin the front armhole seam allowance of the main blazer to the front armhole seam allowance of the lining. Start by pulling the sleeve lining out of the sleeve and matching the two shoulder seams.

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Keep pinning the two layers together from the shoulder to the underarm through the front seam allowance, matching the seams and notches. Sew around the front of the armhole within the seam allowance to join the two layers. Make sure the seam allowances are still pressed towards the sleeve.

Repeat for the other sleeve.

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Fold the hem up 5cm, wrong sides together as per the pressing steps you made at the beginning. Pin, then ditch stitch the hem in place 3-4cm at each side seam and the centre back seam.

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Now we will complete the hem. If you are using bias binding at the hem, fold the bias binding to enclose the raw edge. Pin the binding closed, pinning through the front, as well as the binding. Starting at the hem edge of one facing edge stitch up to the bottom of the hem binding. Stop with your needle down and pivot the blazer 90 degrees. Edge stitch the binding closed along the hem until you reach the next facing. Stop again with your needle down, pivot 90 degrees, then edge stitch on the facing to the bottom of the blazer.

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Attach the lining to the main body at the side seam by ditch stitching 3-4cm at each underarm.

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Turn your blazer right side out.

Ensure the cuff is folded back as per your pre-pressing at the beginning. Give it another press. Pin the hem up at the seam then ditch stitch 2 cm in each sleeve seam at cuff to secure the hem. Hold the sleeve lining out of the way so you don’t sew over it.

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Mark the buttonholes on the right front using the markings on the pattern as a guide. Sew the buttonhole according to your machine’s manual.

Sew a button on the left front, as indicated. If you prefer your garment closure to wrap left over right, simply switch the button and buttonhole around.

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Fold the lapels of your blazer along the roll line indicated on the pattern and press gently.

Fold the collar down so the seam where the under collar meets the back is just covered and press gently.

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Clip any loose threads and remove any visible basting stitches.

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Give your Leo Blazer a final press.

You’re all done!

Check out the Leo Blazer pattern in our Online Store here.

Don't forget you can always email us via patterns@thefabricstore.co.nz if you need advice!

May makes from our wonderful community are also popping up over on Instagram, follow @makebytfs and use #TFSLeo so others can check out your creations!

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