5 — Attach lining to Coat

We will start by attaching the lining to your coat at the cuffs.

Make sure the cuff edge on the lining is turned back 2.5cm, as per the pre-pressing steps you made at the beginning. Then turn your coat and lining inside out. and lay them side by side with fronts face up.

Slide the sleeve lining inside the sleeve until the raw edge of the lining cuff meets the raw edge of the main coat cuff. Pin the raw edges together and then sew with a 1cm seam. You will sew through one layer of lining and one layer of the main coat fabric. The fold of the lining will sit inside the sleeve.

To attach the second cuff, lay the coat main and the lining back to back. Then, slide the sleeve lining inside the cuff as you did for the first sleeve. Take your time to ensure the lining is not twisted! Now sew the lining and the main coat together.

Next, we will attach to coat and lining at the centre front.

Pin the front facing to the main coat front with the right sides together. Now sew them together with a 1cm seam. When you reach the collar seam, sew as far as you comfortably can. It can be tricky to sew in close at this point when working with heavier fabrics. The seams should align but they do not need to touch.

Repeat for the other side. The sleeves might look slightly awkward at this point, but it will all come together soon!

Trim each lapel curve to approximately 5mm.

Now pin the top collar to the under collar with the right sides together. Sew the collar with a 1cm seam. Again, sew as far as you comfortably can as you reach the interesting seams.

Now trim the collar curves to about 5mm.

Turn the coat right side out the give it a press.

When pressing the centre front edges, gently roll the front facing towards the main front around the curved lapel. At the lower, straight edge, gently roll the facing towards the inside of the coat as you press.

When pressing the collar, roll the top collar gently towards the under collar.

Now we will attach the top collar and under collar at the neck edge.

Turn the coat inside out again.

With the wrong sides of the collar together, pin the facing seam allowance to the collar seam allowance along the entireneck edge.

Sew the facing to the body within the seam allowance, to close up the collar.

Now it is time to attach the lining to the main coat at the hem.

First, at each corner on the coat body at the hem, sew a line of stitching 1cm from the edge to reinforce corners. Clip into the corner to release the seam allowance. This will allow you to manoeuvre the pieces when finishing the hem.

With the right sides together, pin the lining to coat body at hem. Leave the front facing free at this point.

Sew the lining and main coat hems together with a 1cm seam.

Fold the lining back 2.5cm with the wrong sides together, matching the hem notch on the lining to the seam you have just sewn. The pre-pressing steps you made at the beginning will help with this. Baste the fold in place within the seam allowance where the hem steps down on the main front.

Now it is time to finishing sewing the front facings.

At the centre front hem, fold the seam allowance towards the front facing and pin.

Continue pinning the front facing to the main coat front at the hem edge, stopping when you reach the point where the hem steps down.

Fold up the main coat hem 5cm then pin the main coat hem and the lining to the vertical edge of the front facing.

Starting at the centre front, sew across the hem at 1cm. Stop with your needle down 1cm before the edge of the front facing, at the corner where you released the seam allowance. Make sure you stop with your needle going through both layers. Lift your presser foot, then pivot and rearrange your coat so you are ready to sew the rest of the facing to the front lining. Lower your presser foot and complete the seam.

Repeat for the other side.

Turn out your coat through the hole in the sleeve lining.

Your coat is now ready for the finishing touches!