7 — Sewing the Skirt

First, we will construct the skirt back.

With right sides together pin one back skirt side panel to a skirt centre panel, matching the notches. Stitch, and then neaten the seam. Repeat for the other side panel. Press the seams towards the side panels.

Run two parallel lines of basting stitches, 6mm apart, at the waist edge of the skirt back. Use the longest stitch your machine has.

Next, pull the bobbin threads to gather the skirt until it is the same width as the waist edge on the bodice back.

Now we will sew the skirt front.

Place the pocket bag onto the front skirt side panel with the right sides together and pin together at notches marked ‘pocket opening’. Stitch a box from notch to notch, from the outside edge in towards the pocket bag 1cm. With needle down, turn 90 degrees and continue stitching at 1cm, parallel to the edge. Stitch down to line up with the lower notch, turn back towards outside and stitch towards the edge.

Next, mitre into the upper and lower corners of the box by snipping into each corner. Take care not to cut into your stitch line.

Fold entire pocket bag over towards the wrong side of the fabric and press along edge of pocket opening. Under stitch

the pocket opening from corner to corner.

Fold the pocket in half, right sides together. Pin the upper and lower pocket edges together, then stitch a 1cm seam across the top of the pocket bag to close it and a 1cm seam around the curved, lower edge of the pocket bag to close the base. Neaten the lower edge only. Baste the pocket to the skirt at the side seam above and below the pocket opening.

Repeat these steps for the other pocket. Remember to sew it as a mirror image so you have a pair!

With right sides together, pin the unpocketed edge of the left front side panel to the left side of the front centre panel, matching the notches. Sew the seams and then neaten. Repeat for the other front side panel.

Press the seams towards the side seams.

Fold the pocket out of the way then run two parallel lines of basting stitches, 6mm apart, at the waist edge of the skirt front. Use the longest stitch your machine has. Do not catch the pocket with these stitches.

Next, pull the bobbin threads to gather the skirt until it is the same width as the waist edge on the bodice front.

With the right sides together, pin the skirt front to the skirt back at the side seams.

Stitch together using a 1cm seam. Take care near the pocket edge not to accidentally catch the pocket opening in this seam. You can either pin it back a little or tuck it out of the way as you get close to it.

Neaten the side seams then press them towards the back.

Now it is time to attach the skirt to the bodice!

With the right sides together, pin the skirt to the bodice, matching the notches and distributing the gathers evenly. Then, pin the pockets in place on top of the gathers.

Sew your skirt to the bodice and then neaten the seam.

Remove any visible gathering stitches and then press the seam up, towards the bodice.

Finally, sew your skirt hem. Fold back the 1cm seam allowance, then fold up another 8cm for the hem. Pin the hem in place, then edge stitch to close.

Give your dress a press, then move on to the finishing touches!