2 — Sew Front

Sew a line of machine basting stitching around the remaining three raw edges of the pocket piece at 1cm.

Then, fold back and press the edges using the stitching to help guide you.

Transfer the pocket markings from the pattern piece to the left front (as you are wearing it) of your shirt.

Pin the pocket aligning it to the markings you have just made and then edge stitch the pocket in place.

We will now mark in some stitching and slash lines using a fabric pen, or tailor’s chalk.

On the upper placket, mark in the stitching line on the wrong side.

This runs 1.2cm from the edge, starting at the neck and finishes at the notch near the bottom of the placket.

On the under placket, mark in the stitching line on the wrong side.

This runs 1.2cm from the edge, starting at the neck and finishes 4.5cm from the bottom of the placket.

Now, mark the centre front slash line on both the right and wrong sides of the front. This line starts at the neck edge and finishes about midway down the front of the shirt.

With the front of the shirt wrong side up, place the upper placket right side down, matching the neck edge notches, and the edge of the upper placket to the slash line. The bottom notch of the upper placket will meet the end of the slash line. Pin in place.

Now sew the two pieces together along the stitching you marked on the upper placket, stopping at the notch near the bottom.

Flip the shirt front over so the right side is facing up. Place the under placket right side down, matching the neck edge notches, and the edge of the under placket to the slash line. The bottom notch of the under placket will meet the end of the slash line. Pin in place.

Now sew the two pieces together along the stitching you marked on the under placket, stopping at the 4.5cm from the bottom of the placket.

With the shirt front face up, cut carefully along the slash line, stopping 1cm before the end. Clip in at an angle to the end of the upper placket seam. Get as close to the stitching as you can without cutting through it.

Cut through the shirt front only. Do not cut the upper placket.

Turn the shirt front wrong side up. On the under placket, about 1cm up from the end of the stitch line, clip in at an angle to the end of the under placket stitching. Get as close to the stitching as you can without cutting through it.

Cut through the shirt front only. Do not cut the under placket.

Fold the under placket out, and then press the seam allowance towards the under placket.

Fold the free edge of the under placket under 1cm, towards the raw edge of the seam allowance and press.

Fold the bottom of the under placket up 2cm and press. This is just above the notch.

Fold the entire under placket to the wrong side, enclosing the raw edges and pin in place.

Starting at the top of the short, vertical side, edge stitch the under placket closed around three folded edges.

Give your under placket a press.

Now it is time to sew the upper placket.

Have the shirt wrong side up in front of you. Fold the bottom of the upper placket up 1cm and press. This is just below the notch.

Fold the upper placket out so the right side is up and press.

Turn the shirt front right side up and pul the placket through so the right side is up. Press along the centre front seam and then pin in place.

Trim the triangle that remains in the centre of the opening.

Now we will create the centre front pleat.

Bring the folded centre front edge of the upper placket to meet the stitched edge of the under placket. Pin it in place, ensuring all the raw edges are tucked under. Make sure you check both the right and wrong sides!

At this point, you can mark in your top stitching line on your placket to help with accuracy when sewing. This line is 3.5cm up from the bottom of the placket. Make sure you use a pen or tailor's chalk that doesn't leave a mark on your fabric.

Starting 3.5cm up from the bottom of the placket, at the open edge, stitch across to the folded edge of the placket. Stop with your needle down, pivot 90 degrees and edge stitch down to the bottom of the placket.

Stop with your needle down, pivot 90 degrees and edge stitch back to the open edge of the placket. Pivot 90 degrees once more and edge stitch the length of the upper placket to close it.

When you are sewing this final step, take care not to catch the under placket with your stitches.

Give your placket a press!

Next up we will sew the collar and assemble the shirt.