2 — Constructing the Backs

First, we will attach the yoke to the back leg.

Stay stitch the top edge of each yoke to prevent it from stretching out.

Then, with the right sides together, pin the right yoke to the right back leg. The larger end of the yoke is at the centre back.

Sew together at 1cm then neaten the seam. Press the seam down towards the leg.

Top stitch the seam allowance to the leg with two lines of stitching, 6mm apart.

Now, repeat for the other side.

Now we will sew the back pockets.

Turn the top edge of the back pocket over 1cm twice. Top stitch with two lines of stitching, 6mm apart.

Machine baste a line of stitching around the remaining sides of each pocket at 1cm.

Press the edges under 1cm using the stitching as a guide, rolling the basting stitches to the underside so they are not visible from right side.

Trim the excess fabric from the seam allowance so it’s not visible over the top edge.

Transfer the back pocket placement to the back leg using tailor's chalk, a fabric pen, or your preferred method.

Pin the back pocket to the back leg.

Top stitch the back pocket to the leg with two lines of stitching, 6mm apart.

Repeat for the other side.

With the right sides together, pin the back legs together at the centre back, matching the notches and seams.

When matching seams, try machine basting a few stitches at the join to prevent them from slipping when sewing the seam.

Sew the centre back seam at 1cm then neaten with your overlocker.

When sewing the centre back seam you might find it helpful to use a tool called a hump jumper when sewing over the point where the yokes meet. This tool often has two different thicknesses and is used to ease the back of your sewing machine presser foot up and over a particularly thick spot. If you don't own a hump jumper a folded piece of fabric is just as effective!

Press the seam towards the left side, as worn. Top stitch on the left leg, with two lines of top stitching, 6mm apart.

Now you've sewn the backs, it is time to sew the fly zip.