Bloom Shirt + Dress Sew Along

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4 — Sleeve Plackets and Cuffs

Posted
20—December 2020

Next up we sew our cuffs and sleeve plackets! You can skip this step if you are sewing a short sleeved Bloom.

4 — Cuffs and Sleeve Plackets
Dec 20 2020
1 Cuff
Cuffs

Two sew the cuffs, fold the 1cm seam allowance to the wrong side along the long, interfaced edge. The fold the cuff in half, right sides together at the notches. Sew the short ends closed with a 1cm seam, making sure to catch the folded seam allowance as you sew.

2 Turn Cuffs Out
3 Cuff Is Turned Out

Turn out the cuff with a point turner and and give it a press. Sew the second cuff and put them both aside while we sew the sleeve plackets.

2 Sleeve and Placket Cut Out
3 Sleeve Placket Pinned onto Sleeve
Sleeve Plackets

Start sewing the sleeve plackets by transferring the slash line to the wrong side of your placket piece and sleeve. This line runs from the notch to the + as indicated on the pattern. Check the outer edges of the sleeve placket are still folded as per your pressing at the beginning.

Now, pin the right side of the sleeve placket piece to the wrong side of the sleeve. Make sure to match the notch, slash line and +. The long side of the sleeve placket will be on the wider side of the sleeve.

You may find it helpful mark the stitching line on to your placket piece with tailor's chalk or a fabric pen. The stitching line runs parallel to the slash line, 6mm on either side, and across the top of the slash line, 6mm from the +. The box will be 12mm wide in total.
4 Sewing Chalked Line

Starting at the sleeve hem, stitch a box on three sides around the slash line, 6mm from the line. If you chose to mark on your stitching line, follow these lines. The finished box will measure 12mm wide in total.

8 Line is Cut

Next, cut up the slash line to just below the + mark. Then, cut diagonally into the corners. Cut as close as you can to each corner without cutting through your stitching.

11 Sleeve Placket turned out

Now turn your sleeve over so it is right side up and pull the placket through to the right side. Fold and press around the box edges to get a clean edge.

12
13 Tuck and pin side next to cut line

The shorter side of the sleeve placket is the underlap and it will sit on the bottom. Fold out the underlap so you can see the wrong side. Now, making sure that the 6mm seam allowance is still folded under, fold the underlap in half, wrong sides together, as indicated by the notch. The edge will meet the stitching line. Ensure that all your seam allowances are tucked in and everything is sitting flat, then pin the underlap in place.

14 Sew Along where pinned

Now, edge stitch the long edge of the underlap closed and give it a press.

15 Fold otherside over
16 Fold back and pin

The long side of the sleeve placket is the overlap and it will sit on top. Fold out the overlap so you can see the wrong side. Ensure that the 6mm seam allowance is still folded under and the top is folded down 1cm. Now, fold the overlap in half, wrong sides together, as indicated by the notch. The edge will meet the stitching line. Ensure that all your seam allowances are tucked in and everything is sitting flat, then pin the overlap in place.

17 Measure Down From Top Of Sleeve Placket

Next, measure down 2.5cm from top edge of the sleeve placket and mark a line across the width of the placket.

18 Sew Chalked Line on Placket

Now we will sew the placket closed!

Start at the open edge of the placket, 2.5cm from the top and stitch across the placket on the line you have just marked.

19 Turn and Continue to sew square
20 Turn again and Continue to sew square

When you reach the other side, stop with your needle down, pivot 90 degrees and edge stitch to the top of the placket overlap. At the top corner, pivot another 90 degrees and edge stitch to the next corner. Pivot 90 degrees one more time and edge stitch the overlap closed. Make sure you don't catch the underlap as you sew!

23 Frankie re sewn placket

Give your placket a press and repeat for the other sleeve!

Now it's time to sew your sleeve pleats.

1 Sleeve Pleat Pinned
2 Sleeve Pleat Sewn
Sleeve Pleats

To create the two sleeve pleats, bring the two notches to the side of the placket together and pin in place. Do the same for the next two notches. The pleats will open towards the sleeve placket. Baste them in place and then give them a gentle press. Then sew your pleats for the other sleeve.

In the next post we will sew the back yoke.

Don't forget you can always email us via patterns@thefabricstore.co.nz if you need advice!

Bloom makes from our wonderful community are also popping up over on Instagram, follow @makebytfs and use #TFSBloomShirt and #TFSBloomDress so others can check out your creations!

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Location — Australia