3 — Under Collar and Sleeves

At each corner on the front sew a line of stitching 1cm from the edge to reinforce the corners where the collar turns on the fronts. Clip into the corner to release the seam allowance. This will allow you to manoeuvre the pieces when sewing the under collar.

With the right sides together and matching the notches, pin the under collar to the main blazer body. Each end of the under collar extends 1cm past the notch on the front.

Sew the under collar to the body with a 1cm seam starting and finishing at the notches on the front. When you reach a corner, stop with your needle down and raise the presser foot.

Pivot, and rearrange your blazer so that the seam you are going to sew is lying at, then continue sewing to the next corner. Stop with your needle down and rearrange your blazer again. Now continue sewing to the end of the under collar. You can sew with the under collar on top, or on the bottom. Just make sure to catch the front pieces when you stop with your needle down at each corner.

Press the seam open. The corners of the under collar will need to be folded when you press this seam open.

With the right sides together, pin the top sleeve to the under sleeve at both seams. Sew them with a 1cm seam and press open. Repeat for the other sleeve to create a pair of sleeves.

We will now set in the sleeves.

Run two lines of basting stitches 6mm apart over the sleeve head.

With the right sides together, pin the sleeve to the main body. The single notch on the under sleeve matches to the side seam on the body. Pull the basting threads gently to ease the sleeve head into the armhole opening. Sew the sleeve to the blazer body, adjusting the sleeve head as you sew, and taking care not to create any tucks. Press the seam towards the sleeve.

Repeat for the second sleeve.

Press the seam towards the sleeve.

Repeat for the second sleeve.

Next up, time to sew the lining.