Jess — Muna and Broad

Hi, I’m Jess! I’m a creative/sewist living in Ōtautahi/Christchurch with my greyhound, Fifey. I’m 1/2 of plus-size sewing pattern company Muna and Broad, and I print PDF sewing patterns for NZ sewists through my micro-business ChCh Sews.

I started taking evening sewing lessons in Tāmaki Makaurau/Auckland back in 2017 because I couldn’t find natural-fibre clothes in my size at any price point. I just wanted to wear some relaxed linen shirts, and since I couldn’t buy them, sewing seemed my only option (hilariously, once I started sewing I realised that there were also very few patterns available in my size, and no relaxed shirt patterns I could make)!

This might be controversial, but I’m not sure that I would sew clothes if there were more plus-size options in shops, or if more attention was paid to plus-size fit in ready-to-wear clothing. I think while a lot of sewists come to sewing as a purely creative outlet, my sewing still often feels like something I ‘need’ to do.
I guess one thing that I like is that sewing removes you from the constant churn of ‘trending’, both in terms of colours and actual clothing style. Presuming there are patterns available in your size, sewing lets you make choices about how you’d like to show up in the world. I like not being forced to embrace low-rise jeans just because they’re apparently “in” right now.

Muna and Broad makes modern sewing patterns for plus-size bodies! M&B started because we kept being told that clothes and patterns didn’t exist in our size because fat people didn’t want those styles- except we knew that some folks did, because we wanted them! Relaxed-fitting boxy shirts and tops, wide-leg elastic-waist pants, a strappy camisole, rigid denim jeans, a quilted coat; they don’t sound revolutionary but these were patterns that didn’t exist in the size range we cover until we released them.

My printing service through ChCh sews is just one like most others - folks can collect patterns from me, or have me post them out across NZ (I print patterns from all pattern companies, but I get a special kick printing M&B patterns for customers).

We’ve got a few patterns in the works, including a cute top with a peter pan collar option and some barrel leg jeans. Once I’ve finished my ‘work’ sewing, I’m really looking forward to scrap-busting some leftovers from recent projects into an improv quilt, and making some cushion covers!

I’m most proud of the work M&B has done releasing patterns with a fat point of view, or which solve fat issues:

There’s shaping in the centre back of our Pyrmont Skirt to ensure the hem hangs evenly over a large posterior. Our Tarlee T-Shirt has a shaped centre-back seam to wrap around a rounded high back (which is typical in our size range) and the Belmore Jacket and Medlow Robe both have a shaped centre-back neckline to wrap around that typical rounded high back. We included 2 separate bum fits in our Noice Jeans and Whitlam Skirt to cover two distinct bum shapes we were seeing amongst our customers.

We desperately wanted natural-fibre chub rub shorts for ourselves, and when we couldn’t buy any we made Dulcie Boxer Briefs. But, then people kept asking about turning those in to leggings so the Loxton Leggings are the results of everything we wanted to fix about all the leggings we’ve known before. I could go on, but I guess the point is that it’s nice to have a wardrobe full of clothes that prioritise my body and my comfort, and to be making that possible for other folks too.

I think many of my sewing flops came down to fabric choice and not understanding how that fabric would respond to a particular pattern. Although I haven’t been sewing for very long in the scheme of things, I’ve touched and sewn with a lot of fabrics in the past few years! The more I know about fabrics (and when it’s okay to bend the fabric suggestions), the more consistent my makes have been.

I don’t think you NEED to have these to get started, but these are the things I now wouldn’t do without -

• Really good shears

• Biggest cutting mat that’s practical

• Rotary cutter

• Sharp little thread snips

• Sewing clips (you’ll never accidentally serge over a pin if you use sewing clips!)

My bright blue oversized Lobethal Shirt which I added two ridiculously capacious gusseted pockets to the front of. I didn’t expect this shirt would be such a win, but it makes me feel very purposeful when I wear it!

Not sewing exactly, but I really enjoy this ’Yoga for Sewists and Makers’ video from All Bodies Welcome Yoga which concentrates on a lot of the spots that get sore and tight when I’ve been sewing for too long.

I also recommend having at least one greyhound resting in your sewing area so that their long faces can encourage you to take frequent breaks.

More generally, I think it’s a tough time for small businesses and sewing businesses and fabric shops have been hit extra hard. No matter where you are I’m sure you’ve had local crafting shops closing down. I’ve been trying extra hard to prioritise shopping with small businesses, local businesses, and businesses that I think are doing good work or share my ethics (even better if they’re all of that)!

Haha! It’s part spite and part just wanting natural fibre clothes in my size. Eventually I’ll nail down the criteria for ‘a sewing win for Jess’ and I’ll be making 100% banger after 100% banger every single time (I hope).

I’ve been pinning a lot of lace and other fabrics with holes in them recently and I feel like this blue broderie would make a great Waikerie Shirt!

I try to take selfies with fabric in natural light to make sure everything is happy being paired up and I know this gorgeous green silk satin would be a great match for my eyes.

I have this heavyweight linen granola fabric in my stash already and I love how it reminds me of vintage caravan upholstery- I really want a shawl collar jacket from it, I’m just waiting for the pattern to exist.

I’m obsessed with the sheer check silks- I’m pretty sure I have it in at least 3 colours! I haven’t sewn with it yet, but I’m full of ideas!

I used this fronds laceto make a Campsie Top recently and it was surprisingly enjoyable and easy to sew with.

My sewing-time media consumption recently has entirely consisted of romances with fat protagonists, and hilarious/pure enjoyment podcasts like The Off Menu Podcast, Horne Section Podcast, and Taskmaster The Podcast. It’s important for me to stock up on joy in case my sewing requires a lot of unpicking!