Friends of TFS

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Lauren - Elbe Textiles

Posted
06—August 2024

Lauren joins us for a chat this week on Friends of TFS!

Friends of TFS — Lauren from Elbe Textiles
Aug 6 2024

We've followed the evolution of pattern maker Lauren's beautiful brand Elbe Textiles since it's launch and love her dedication to quality and creativity. Every Elbe Textiles pattern features a unique nod to heritage sensibilities, with minimal silhouettes and attentive detailing - from wrap jumpsuits to coats, right down to the basics like shirting and tees. We especially appreciate that Lauren's range offers menswear, womenswear and gender-neutral style options, no small feat for an independent pattern maker! Read on as we chat to Perth-based Lauren about her sewing journey to date, plus projects past and present.

Hey Lauren, please give a brief introduction of yourself to our readers!

Hello! I'm Lauren, owner/designer/pattern maker/sewer/everything person for Elbe Textiles. I've always known I wanted to work with clothes. I studied fashion at university, worked various roles within the industry, and then for the last six or so years I've been running my business! When I'm not doing that, I'm usually spoiling my dog, Basil, or indulging in other creative hobbies. I go through phases- shoemaking, pottery, painting. Right now I'm obsessed with the idea of stained glass, but I can't let myself spend another fortune on supplies.

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What led you to sewing, and how long have you been sewing for?

Since I was a kid! I'm very lucky to have grown up with parents that encouraged me in this path. Mum is an artist and Nanna sewed, so there was always things around the house for me to experiment with. Although I do remember chopping a big chunk out of some bridesmaids dresses in the closet, so I could make a dress for my dolls. The encouragement was tested at that point.

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Tell us about your pattern brand, Elbe Textiles

I've always struggled with describing the brand. Because I'm creating designs to appeal to an audience that will be putting their own spin on things, you have to be somewhat of a blank canvas. I do tend to lean towards more of a minimal style anyway, which helps.

I create a mix of menswear, womenswear and gender neutral patterns.

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What is it about sewing that brings you joy?

I genuinely enjoy working with my hands. Using beautiful quality fabrics. Taking the time to make something that will last. It's pretty cool being able to imagine a design and executing that.

What are you working on (or planning towards) at the moment?

I've got a menswear pattern in mind at the moment. A lot of cool panelling, seam details and hidden pockets. I'm excited for this one!

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Share with us what you learnt from your biggest sewing success

I think success comes from a lot of failures. Learning what not to do. Implementing these lessons the next time you try. Don't get discouraged if you can't nail something straight away. Just keep practicing.

And what you learnt from your biggest sewing flop!

Always toile. Especially if you're trying a new pattern or new designer.

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Describe the space you use for making art in 5 words... "Sunlit, airy, neutral, tucked away"
What are your top 5 sewing must-have tools?

I'm not big on gadgets and accessories. I don't even use pins much and rarely change my sewing foot. Not sure I could even list 5! But I'll give it a red hot go.

- Iron (pressing is EVERYTHING)

- My Juki Industrial Straight Stitch

- Overlocker

Yeah, only 3, sorry. I'd rather spend my money on nice fabric and thread.

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Tell us the story of your favourite wardrobe item

Hard to nail down a favourite! At the moment it's probably a garment sample I made for my first menswear shoot I did in Melbourne. It was a jacket that I patched together out of various black linen offcuts, then hand stitched some cream coloured thread along the panels.

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Do you have any special sewing tips you’d like to share?

Back to what I was saying before about pressing - it truly does make the difference in whether or not a garment looks professional or not. That, and making sure you choose the right thread colour for your project. And follow the patterns recommended fabric choices!

They're there for a reason.

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What do you wish the sewing community knew about independent patternmakers?

I actually asked a bunch of my pattern maker friends this question to get the general consensus. The overarching theme was one of how much work goes into this business. A lot of us are solo practitioners - we run every aspect of the business ourselves, from grading the patterns, creating the instruction booklets, marketing, admin, customer support etc. I think there is a view in the online sewing community that starting an indie pattern company will be easy money, or a good side hustle. But I think you have to be really passionate about pattern making and design to give this a go as there's a lot of competition these days!

What and/or who motivates and inspires you?

I am motivated by the need to pay my rent and keep Basil in snacks. Haha, no but seriously it keeps me going when I see people posting their makes online. It really is heartwarming and motivating and I appreciate it so much. I'm inspired by designers like Yohji Yamamoto, Ann Demeulemeester, Rick Owens, Rei Kawakubo. Anything black, drapey and asymmetrical, really.

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Tell us what your top 5 favourite fabrics are from our Online Store and why?

Can't beat the linen - especially the Vintage Finish Linen. I'm a sucker for texture and this has the rumpled, worn in look down pat.

The Upcycled Denim! The sustainability aspect of this is a winner, but I really love the slight variations in colour and texture. I've used this fabric for all sorts - bags, garments, accessories.

The Premium Merino is delicious. I try to only work with natural fibres and wool has such great properties, especially when you'll be wearing this close to the skin.

Organic Hemp - again with my love of texture and sustainability.

This Heavyweight Linen Blend Tweed, I used it in a photoshoot once and I get a lot of emails asking where to get it. I'm like a broken record, but the texture! I can't go past anything neutral and textured.

Are there any favourite books, podcasts or blogs that you’d love to share?

99% Invisible is a great design podcast.

The podcast Lady Startup Stories was really inspiring when I was getting my own business up and running.

And completely off topic - but I've been enjoying Real Survival Stories when I need some kind of escapism.

As a Perth local, do you have any favourite spots to recommend to our readers?

I'd have to say Fremantle on the whole. My studio is based there and there's such an eclectic mix of small businesses. I'm tucked away in the Fremantle Malls opposite an amazing coffee place. Neighbours with a ceramicist, an esoteric shop, piercing shop, record shop, tattoo parlour, hairdresser etc - we've got it all. Across the road from the Piazza too which has so many great vintage stores. I bring Basil to work with me and his favourite activity is our lunchtime walk around the suburb so everyone can admire him and tell him what a big boy he is.

A very warm thank you to Lauren for chatting with us this week, we're looking forward to following her progress with the new menswear pattern! We hope you've enjoyed this Friends of TFS interview, head over and follow Elbe Textiles via Instagram for more of Lauren's work.

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Location — New Zealand