May jean title images back 2

2 — Construct the Backs

26—April 2022

Now it is time to start sewing the backs of your May Jean.

May Jean Sew Along — 2 — Constructing the Backs
Apr 26 2022
1 back yoke staystitch

First, we will attach the yoke to the back leg.

Stay stitch the top edge of each yoke to prevent it from stretching out.

2 pinning yoke to leg
3 yoke sew overlock

Then, with the right sides together, pin the right yoke to the right back leg. The larger end of the yoke is at the centre back.

Sew together at 1cm then neaten the seam. Press the seam down towards the leg.

5 yoke close up

Top stitch the seam allowance to the leg with two lines of stitching, 6mm apart.

Now, repeat for the other side.

7 back pocket press
6 back pocket basting topsitch

Now we will sew the back pockets.

Turn the top edge of the back pocket over 1cm twice. Top stitch with two lines of stitching, 6mm apart.

Machine baste a line of stitching around the remaining sides of each pocket at 1cm.

If you would like to add decorative stitching to your back pockets, now is the time to do this.
7 back pocket pressed
8 pocket cutting corners

Press the edges under 1cm using the stitching as a guide, rolling the basting stitches to the underside so they are not visible from right side.

Trim the excess fabric from the seam allowance so it’s not visible over the top edge.

9 marking back pocket
11 back pocket marking close

Transfer the back pocket placement to the back leg using tailor's chalk, a fabric pen, or your preferred method.

Pin the back pocket to the back leg.

12 back pocket topstitched

Top stitch the back pocket to the leg with two lines of stitching, 6mm apart.

Repeat for the other side.

14 pinning back crutch
15 basting yoke seams pointing

With the right sides together, pin the back legs together at the centre back, matching the notches and seams.

When matching seams, try machine basting a few stitches at the join to prevent them from slipping when sewing the seam.

17 crutch seam overlocked

Sew the centre back seam at 1cm then neaten with your overlocker.

Hump jumper 2
New hump jumper 1

When sewing the centre back seam you might find it helpful to use a tool called a hump jumper when sewing over the point where the yokes meet. This tool often has two different thicknesses and is used to ease the back of your sewing machine presser foot up and over a particularly thick spot. If you don't own a hump jumper a folded piece of fabric is just as effective!

18 crutch seam topstitch

Press the seam towards the left side, as worn. Top stitch on the left leg, with two lines of top stitching, 6mm apart.

Now you've sewn the backs, it is time to sew the fly zip.

Check out the May Jean pattern in our Online Store here.

Don't forget you can always email us via if you need advice!

May makes from our wonderful community are also popping up over on Instagram, follow @makebytfs and use #TFSMay so others can check out your creations!

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Location — New Zealand