5 — Cuffs and Attaching the Sleeves

Fold your cuff in half, lengthways with the right sides together. Sew the buttonhole end of the cuff closed, finishing 1cm before the cuff edge.

At the button tab end of the cuff, sew the end closed at 1cm, this time finishing at the cuff edge.

Then fold the seam towards the inner cuff (unstitched side) and stitch from the edge to the notch, catching the seam allowance as you sew.

Clip into the end of the seam, at the notch, 1cm on the inner cuff only.

Sew a second cuff as a mirror image of the first cuff, so you create a pair of cuffs.

Now, trim the lower corner on the tab/button end of the cuffs.

Turn your cuffs right side out and give them a press.

We will now attach your cuffs to the sleeves!

Using the longest stitch on your sewing machine, run two parallel lines of stitching 6mm apart, at the cuff edge. Gather the stitching until it is the same width as the cuff opening.

Pin the sleeve to the cuff between the notches, the wrong side of the sleeve to the right side of the inner cuff. This is the unstitched edge of the cuff.

The button tab end will go at the back of the sleeve, and the buttonhole end will be at the front. Now stitch the sleeve and cuff together.

Press the seam into the cuff. Fold the 1cm seam allowance on the outer cuff under, and pin. The line of stitching you sewed will guide you here.

Stitch the cuff closed from the right side, then remove any visible gathering stitches.

Repeat for your other cuff.

Now scroll down to attach the sleeves to the bodice.

Using the longest stitch on your sewing machine, run two parallel lines of stitching 6mm apart, at the cuff edge. Gather the stitching until it is the same width cuff between the notches.

Pin the sleeve to the cuff between the notches, on the inner cuff (unstitched side). Place the wrong side of the sleeve to the right side of the cuff. Now stitch to two pieces together.

Fold the tie cuff in half right sides together and pin.

Stitch the ends closed.

Now, trim the curved ends to 6mm and turn the cuff right side out. Press the seam into the cuff.

Now, fold under the seam allowance 1cm along the line of stitching and pin. Edge stitch your cuff closed from the right side.

Repeat for the other cuff, then give your sleeves a press.

Follow on to set in your sleeves to the bodice.

We will now set in the sleeves.

Using a long stitch, run a line of basting stitches over the sleeve head, 6mm from the edge, between the notches.

With the right sides together, pin the sleeve to the bodice, matching the underarm seam and the notches. Pull the basting thread gently to ease the sleeve head to the bodice. Pin the sleeve in place.

Sew the sleeve to the bodice, adjusting the sleeve head as you sew, and taking care not to create any tucks.

Neaten the seam and then press it towards the sleeve.

Set in your second sleeve in the same way.

Now it is time to sew and attach the skirt or the peplum, depending on which view you are making.