Pockets Square

3 — Constructing the Front

Posted
26—January 2021

Now we will sew the front pleats and the pockets!

August Skirt Sew Along — 3 — Constructing the Front
Jan 26 2021
1 Find Centre Point
Sewing the pleats

Now it is time to sew your front. It is easiest to create your pleats by working from the centre front, out to the side seam. Find your centre front notch by folding the front piece in half.

2 Match Notches
3 Measure Drill Hole

Now locate the three notches to one side of centre front. Bring the outer two of these notches together, right sides together, to create the pleat. Mark your stitching line on with tailor's chalk or fabric pen, running 3.5cm down from the waist edge.

4 Pin
5 Box Pleat First Sew

Pin the pleat in place, then sew from the notch down 3.5cm following the line you just marked.

6 Flatten Box Pleat
7 Pin Box Pleat In Place

Bring the centre pleat notch and pleat seam together. Press your pleat flat, pin and then baste it in place at the waist edge.

8 Match Next Notches
9 Measure Drill Hole Knife Pleat

Now, working towards the side seam, bring the next two notches together. Mark on your stitching line, running 3.5cm from the waist seam.

10 Sew Knife Pleat
11 Pleats Complete One Side

Pin and then sew your pleat 3.5cm down from the waist notches. Create a total of two pleats in this way. Baste these pleats in place at the waist edge so they open towards the centre front and the pleat excess is towards the side seam.

13 Pleats Complete Front Panel

Sew your pleats for the other side in the same way and then give them a gentle press.

1 Pocket Bearer
3 Bearer Is Sewn
Sewing the pockets.

Next we move on to the side pockets. Neaten the long, un-notched edge of your pocket bearer piece. Then, place the wrong side of the pocket bearer to the right side of the pocket bag, matching the notches. Edgestitch around the entire pocket bearer piece to hold it in place.

4 Attach Pocket Bag To Skirt
6 Pocket Bag Is Attached

With the right sides together, align the angled edge of your pocket bag piece to the pocket opening on the skirt, right sides together. Pin in place then sew this seam at 1cm.

7 Iron Pocket Bag Flat
8 Top Stitch Pocket Bag 2

Press the seam allowance towards the pocket bag, then under stitch at 3mm on the pocket bag.

9 Turn Back Over
10 Right Side Of Skirt Panel 2

Fold your pocket bag to the inside of your skirt and give it another press. Now, working with the right side facing up, topstitch at 6mm along the pocket opening.

11 Pin Pocket Bag Closed
12 Sew and Trim Pocket Bag

Next, fold your pocket bag in half at the centre with the wrong sides together. This is the opposite to how you pressed this piece at the beginning. Pin the bottom edges of the pocket together then sew with it closed with a 6mm seam. Trim your seam to 3mm, taking care not to cut through your stitching.

13 Sew Pocket Bag

Turn your pocket out so the right sides are together. Use a point turner to help you, then press the seam. Sew the bottom edge of the pocket again at 6mm to enclose the seam.

14 Baste to Front Front Complete

Baste your pocket to the skirt at the waist and side seam then repeat for the other side. Your front is complete!

Now move on to constructing your waistband and belt loops.

Check out the August Skirt pattern in our Online Store here. Don't forget you can always email us via patterns@thefabricstore.co.nz if you need advice!

August makes from our wonderful community are also popping up over on Instagram, follow @makebytfs and use #TFSAugustSkirt so others can check out your creations!

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Location — Australia