Welcome to our Make by TFS Leo pattern sew along! In this post, we go through pre-pressing/interfacing steps, sewing the main body, the lining, undercollar, and sleeves, attaching the lining, and finishing touches!
Check out the Leo Blazer pattern in our Online Store here.
Don't forget you can always email us via patterns@thefabricstore.co.nz if you need advice!
P.s
Leo makes from our wonderful community are also popping up over on Instagram, follow @makebytfs and use #TFSLeo so others can check out your creations!
Step 1 — Pre-pressing and Interfacing
Before you start sewing, we recommend block fusing some pattern pieces. Block fusing is a fusing technique whereby you apply your interfacing to a section of fabric prior to cutting out the pattern pieces. It helps avoid interfacing slippage and stops your pattern pieces from stretching out of shape, and therefore ensures accuracy. It also means you only need to cut your pieces out once. Block fusing does require you to group all the pattern pieces requiring interfacing together when you cut out your pattern however, so you may require additional fabric.
If you do not wish to block fuse, you can piece fuse these pattern pieces. This means cutting out each pattern piece in both interfacing and your main fabric and then applying the interfacing to each piece separately. If you choose to piece fuse keep your pattern pieces close by for reference and make sure they don’t stretch out of shape.
The pattern pieces requiring fusing are the collar, collar stand, and front facings.
Interfacing the front is optional, depending on the weight of the fabric you are using. Take note, that as the front of the blazer is unlined, this interfacing will be visible on the inside of your blazer.
It is also optional to strip fuse the body and sleeve hems - for a lighter fabric, this can help to provide hem stability.
It is also optional to strip fuse the body and sleeve hems - for a lighter fabric, this can help to provide stability at the hem. Cut your strips of fusible interfacing, slightly wider than the depth of your hem.
Repeat the process for the back, top sleeve, and under sleeve pieces.
We strongly recommend that you use an iron to press some areas of your pieces before you begin sewing. This will help to ensure accuracy as you sew, as well as aid in giving your Leo Blazer a neat and tidy finish.
Fold the top of the pocket seam allowance over 1cm to the wrong side, then a further 4cm to the wrong side as indicated by the notches and press. The finished fold will be 4cm.
Fold up the cuff on each top sleeve 4cm, with the wrong sides together and press.
Fold up the cuff on each under sleeve 4cm, with the wrong sides together and press.
Fold up the hem on each front 5cm, with the wrong sides together and press.
Fold up the hem on each back 5cm, with the wrong sides together and press.
Fold up the cuff on each top sleeve lining 2.5cm, with the wrong sides together and press.
Fold up the cuff on each under sleeve lining 2.5cm, with the wrong sides together and press.
Now it is time to start sewing the main body of your blazer!
Step 2 — Sewing the Main Body
We will start our Leo Blazer by sewing the patch pockets.
Fold the top of the pocket seam allowance 1cm towards the wrong side, then a further 4cm as indicated by the notches. Edge stitch and then press.
Stitch around the raw edge of the pocket piece at 1 cm. Clip into the seam allowance at the rounded corners. Now, fold back the raw edge 1cm and press using the stitched line to help guide you.
You may want to create a template to help when pressing the rounded bottom edge of the pocket.
Pin the pocket to the front as indicated by the markings on the pattern with the wrong side of the pocket to the right side of the front.
Edge stitch the pocket into place following the stitching line.
Repeat for the other front pocket.
With the right sides together, pin the backs together at the centre back. Sew the seam at 1cm then press the seam open.
Now we will neaten the centre back seam allowance with bias binding. We have cut our own bias binding for this Leo Blazer.
Cut a length of double folded bias binding the length of the seam you are finishing, plus an extra 4-5cm. Place the right side of the bias binding together with the wrong side of the seam allowance, matching the raw edges. Now sew them together at 6mm, finishing at the notch at the hem. This is to reduce bulk when the hem is turned up.
Press the binding out along the seam you have just sewn.
Fold the free edge of the bias binding so it meets the raw edge of the seam allowance and press. Wrap the bias binding around the raw edge of the seam allowance, making sure the fold is tucked under on the right side. Press and then pin the binding in place.
Wrap the bias binding around the raw edge of the seam allowance, making sure the fold is tucked under on the right side. Press and then pin the binding in place.
With the right sides together, pin the front to the back at the side seams then sew with a 1cm seam. Press the seams open. Neaten the side seam with bias binding, finishing at the notch at the hem, as you did with the centre back.
Repeat for the other side.
Then, with the right sides together, pin the front to the back at the shoulders, then sew each shoulder with a 1cm seam. Press the seams open.
Now, attach bias binding to the hem of the blazer. Place the right side of the binding to the wrong side of the blazer. Pin and then stitch it in place with a 6mm seam. Press the binding down, away from the blazer. Don’t enclose the seam just yet, this will be done later in the construction process when the hem is top stitched in place.
Alternatively, you can leave the hem as is and fold under the seam allowance and top stitch the hem closed when it is time to do the finishing touches.
Now it is time to attach the under collar and the sleeves.
Step 3 — Under Collar and Sleeves
At each corner on the front sew a line of stitching 1cm from the edge to reinforce the corners where the collar turns on the fronts. Clip into the corner to release the seam allowance. This will allow you to manoeuvre the pieces when sewing the under collar.
With the right sides together and matching the notches, pin the under collar to the main blazer body. Each end of the under collar extends 1cm past the notch on the front.
Sew the under collar to the body with a 1cm seam starting and finishing at the notches on the front. When you reach a corner, stop with your needle down and raise the presser foot.
Pivot, and rearrange your blazer so that the seam you are going to sew is lying at, then continue sewing to the next corner. Stop with your needle down and rearrange your blazer again. Now continue sewing to the end of the under collar. You can sew with the under collar on top, or on the bottom. Just make sure to catch the front pieces when you stop with your needle down at each corner.
Press the seam open. The corners of the under collar will need to be folded when you press this seam open.
With the right sides together, pin the top sleeve to the under sleeve at both seams. Sew them with a 1cm seam and press open. Repeat for the other sleeve to create a pair of sleeves.
We will now set in the sleeves.
Run two lines of basting stitches 6mm apart over the sleeve head.
With the right sides together, pin the sleeve to the main body. The single notch on the under sleeve matches to the side seam on the body. Pull the basting threads gently to ease the sleeve head into the armhole opening. Sew the sleeve to the blazer body, adjusting the sleeve head as you sew, and taking care not to create any tucks. Press the seam towards the sleeve.
Repeat for the second sleeve.
Press the seam towards the sleeve.
Repeat for the second sleeve.
Next up, time to sew the lining.
Step 4 — Sew the Lining
Fold the back lining in half with the right sides together. Sew down 6cm at the centre back to create a pleat. Press the pleat excess to the left side as worn and baste it in place at the neck edge.
With the right sides together pin the front facing to the back lining at the shoulders. Sew each shoulder with a 1cm seam and then press the seam open.
With the right sides together pin the facing to the lining at each side seam. Sew the side seam with a 1cm seam and then press the seams open.
Apply bias binding to the lower edge of the facing and lining using the same steps as you did when applying the bias binding to the internal seams.
Re-press the centre back pleat.
With the right sides together pin the collar to the collar stand, matching the notches. Sew them together at 6mm and press the seam open.
At each corner on the front facing sew a line of stitching 1cm from the edge to reinforce the corners where the collar turns on the front facing. Clip into the corner to release the seam allowance. This will allow you to manoeuvre the pieces when sewing the collar.
With the right sides together and matching the notches, pin the collar to the facing and lining. Each end of the collar extends 1cm past the notch on the facing.
Sew the collar and collar stand to the facing and lining with a 1cm seam, starting and finishing at the notch on the facing. When you reach a corner, stop with your needle down and raise the presser foot. Pivot, and rearrange your blazer so that the seam you are going to sew is lying at, then continue sewing to the next corner. Stop with your needle down and rearrange your blazer again.
Now continue sewing to the end of the collar.
You can sew with the collar on top, or on the bottom. Just make sure to catch the front pieces when you stop with your needle down at each corner.
Press the seam open. The corners of the collar will need to be folded when you press this seam open.
Now we will sew the sleeve linings.
With the right sides together, pin the top sleeve lining to the under sleeve lining at both seams. Sew them with a 1cm seam and press open. Repeat for the other sleeve to create a pair of sleeve linings.
To set in the sleeve linings, run two lines of basting stitches 6mm apart over the sleeve head.
With the right sides together, pin the sleeve lining to the lining and facing, matching the notches. Pull the basting thread gently to ease the sleeve head into the armhole opening, as you did with the main sleeve.
Sew the sleeve to the lining and facings, adjusting the sleeve head as you sew and taking care not to create any tucks. Press the seam towards the sleeve lining.
Repeat for the second sleeve lining.
Give your lining a press. Now it is time to attach it to the main body and do the finishing touches!
Step 5 — Attach Lining to Blazer and Finishing Touches
First we will join the collar and under collar. With the right sides together, pin the collar and under collar together along the outer edge. Sew together with a 1cm seam.
Press the seam towards the under collar. Keeping the seam allowance folded towards the under collar, pin the each end of the collar closed. Sew each end with a 1cm seam.
Now we will join the lining to the blazer at the front edges.
With the right sides together, pin the facing to the front at the centre front edge and around the lower curved edge. Sew with a 1 cm seam.
At the top lapel corner, fold the centre front seam allowance towards the front and pin to hold it in place. Pin the rest of the top lapel edge closed then sew it closed at 1cm.
Clip in 1cm on the front and front facing at the notch where the collar ends.
Clip in 1cm at the break point; the notch where the roll line meets the centre front.
Trim the lower curved corner to 6mm. Take care not to cut too close to your stitching when clipping and trimming!
Repeat for the other side.
Turn your blazer right side out with the help of a point turner if needed. We will now give it a press.
When pressing the collar, roll the seams towards the under collar. The shape of the pattern pieces and the steps in which the collar has been sewn will help with this.
Working from the top, press the centre front gently rolling the seam out towards the front. When you reach the break point, press the seam in, towards the front facing. This will help to get the front sitting nicely, and make sure the seam is not visible when the collar and lapels are open.
Turn your main blazer and lining inside out. Ensure your sleeve lining cuff is folded back as per the pre-pressing steps you made at the beginning and give it another press. Slide the sleeve lining inside the sleeve until the raw edge of the lining cuff meets the raw edge of the main coat cuff. Pin the raw cuff edges together matching the seams.
Check that your sleeves are not twisted and then sew the cuff with a 1cm seam. You will sew through one layer of lining and one layer of main fabric. The fold of the lining will sit inside the sleeve.
Repeat for the second sleeve.
With the coat still inside out, pin the seam allowances together where the collar and under collar meet the main blazer and lining. The wrong sides of the collar will be together. Sew the facing to the body within the seam allowance, to close up the collar.
Now you will join the sleeve and sleeve lining at the front armhole.
Working inside your blazer, pin the front armhole seam allowance of the main blazer to the front armhole seam allowance of the lining. Start by pulling the sleeve lining out of the sleeve and matching the two shoulder seams.
Keep pinning the two layers together from the shoulder to the underarm through the front seam allowance, matching the seams and notches. Sew around the front of the armhole within the seam allowance to join the two layers. Make sure the seam allowances are still pressed towards the sleeve.
Repeat for the other sleeve.
Fold the hem up 5cm, wrong sides together as per the pressing steps you made at the beginning. Pin, then ditch stitch the hem in place 3-4cm at each side seam and the centre back seam.
Now we will complete the hem. If you are using bias binding at the hem, fold the bias binding to enclose the raw edge. Pin the binding closed, pinning through the front, as well as the binding. Starting at the hem edge of one facing edge stitch up to the bottom of the hem binding. Stop with your needle down and pivot the blazer 90 degrees. Edge stitch the binding closed along the hem until you reach the next facing. Stop again with your needle down, pivot 90 degrees, then edge stitch on the facing to the bottom of the blazer.
Attach the lining to the main body at the side seam by ditch stitching 3-4cm at each underarm.
Turn your blazer right side out.
Ensure the cuff is folded back as per your pre-pressing at the beginning. Give it another press. Pin the hem up at the seam then ditch stitch 2 cm in each sleeve seam at cuff to secure the hem. Hold the sleeve lining out of the way so you don’t sew over it.
Mark the buttonholes on the right front using the markings on the pattern as a guide. Sew the buttonhole according to your machine’s manual.
Sew a button on the left front, as indicated. If you prefer your garment closure to wrap left over right, simply switch the button and buttonhole around.
Fold the lapels of your blazer along the roll line indicated on the pattern and press gently.
Fold the collar down so the seam where the under collar meets the back is just covered and press gently.
Clip any loose threads and remove any visible basting stitches.
Give your Leo Blazer a final press.
You’re all done!