Poppy Coat — Sew Along – The Fabric Store Online

Welcome to our Make by TFS Poppy pattern sew along! In this post, we go through block fusing/pre-pressing steps, sewing the welt pockets, sleeves, and under collar. As well as the sewing the lining, facing, and collar, then attaching the lining, and finishing touches.

Check out the Poppy Coat pattern in our Online Store here. Don't forget you can always email us via patterns@thefabricstore.co.nz if you need advice!

P.s

Poppy makes from our wonderful community are also popping up over on Instagram, follow @makebytfs and use #TFSPoppyCoat so others can check out your creations!

Step 1 — Block Fusing + Pre-Pressing

Before you start sewing we have a few tips to help you with sewing your Poppy Coat!

— We strongly recommend sewing a toile (sample garment) in a calico fabric (or similar) prior to cutting your final coat. This will ensure you have the opportunity to make any alterations in length or fit to the coat pattern using an inexpensive fabric. Sewing a toile requires additional time, but we consider this time well spent for a project of this type.

— Consider the needle size you will use in your machine. Coating fabric is heavier and can get quite thick when you have two, (or more!) layers to sew through. Try a size 90/14 or 100/16 and test it out on some scrap fabric before you start sewing.

— When pressing from the right side of the fabric, use a press cloth or an off-cut of your coating material as a barrier between your coat and the iron. Note that we haven't shown a press cloth in this sew along to make it easier for you to see where you need to press.

— Pressing tools such as a tailor's ham may be helpful when pressing your seams!

Interfacing

The first step in making your Poppy Coat is applying your fusible interfacing to some of your pieces. Select an interfacing appropriate for the main fabric that you have chosen. Test out your main coat fabric with your interfacing to make sure you are happy with how it feels before you commit to fusing your coat pieces.

We recommend block fusing the required pattern pieces. Block fusing is a fusing technique whereby you apply your interfacing to a section of fabric prior to cutting out the pattern pieces. It helps to avoid interfacing slippage, and stops your pattern pieces from stretching out of shape, and therefore ensures accuracy. It also means you only need to cut your pieces out once, so it saves you time! Block fusing does require you to group all the pattern pieces requiring interfacing together when you cut out your pattern however, so you may require additional fabric. Use a fuse press to block fuse your interfacing, if you have access to one. There are also businesses that offer a block fusing service which may be helpful, especially if you plan to interface the entire front pieces. Alternatively, you can use your iron to apply your interfacing.

Block fuse and cut out your facings and front pieces.

For our sew along we have chosen to block fuse our fronts. Fusing the front body pieces is optional and will depend on the weight of the main fabric you have chosen to use. For medium weight coatings, fusing the front body pieces will assist in stablising the coat.

If you do not apply interfacing to the entire front body pieces, you will still need to piece fuse around the welt pocket and hem area. If you do not apply interfacing to the entire front body pieces, you will still need to piece fuse around the welt pocket and hem area. Cut two pieces of fusible interfacing measuring 24cm x 9cm and centre these over the welt pocket opening area on the wrong side. Fuse a 6cm deep strip of interfacing at the hem edge of each piece. See the notes in the Poppy Coat Instruction Booklet for more information on how to do this.

Fuse the welts, pockets bearer, top collar and, collar stand pieces.

The cuff hem and body hems require strips of interfacing to be applied. These strips need to be 6cm in depth and cut in widths to match the pattern pieces

Fuse one 6cm deep strip of interfacing on the wrong side at the cuff edge of each front sleeve and back sleeve piece.

Fuse a strip of interfacing on the wrong side at the hem edge of the back piece.

Pre-Pressing

We will now use an iron to press some areas of your pieces before you begin sewing. It is important not to skip this step! It will help to ensure accuracy as you sew, as well as aid in giving your Poppy Coat a neat and tidy finish.

Fold the welt pieces in half with the wrong sides together and press.

Take the front sleeve and back sleeve pieces and fold the cuff back at the notches. Press. The finished cuff will measure 5cm.

Take your back piece and fold back the hem at the notches. Press. The finished hem will measure 5cm.

Take the fronts and fold back the hem at the notches. Press. The finished hem will measure 5cm.

Fold the pocket bags in half at the notches, right sides together. Press.

Take the front sleeve lining and back sleeve lining pieces and fold the cuff back so the notches meet. Press. The finished cuff lining will measure 2.5cm.

Take the front lining and back lining pieces and fold the hem back so the notches meet. Press. The finished lining hem will measure 2.5cm.

Now it is time to start sewing your coat! First step is sewing the welt pockets.

Step 2 — Welt Pockets

Fold the pocket welts in half with the wrong sides together. Sew each welt closed with a 1cm seam.

Pin the pocket bearer to the pocket bag, right sides together. Sew them together with a 1cm seam and press the seam towards the pocket bag. Repeat for the other pocket bag and pocket bearer to create a pair.

Using the front pattern pieces to guide you, mark out the welt pocket opening on the right side of the coat front. You can use tailor’s chalk, a fabric pen or, hand basting stitches. Just make sure whichever you choose will not leave marks on your fabric when you are finished.

Mark the ends of the stitching line on the welt piece using tailor’s chalk or your preferred marking method. This is 1cm in from each short end.

Pin the welt piece to the front, aligning the marked stitching lines. The folded edge of the welt will point down and towards centre front. The raw edges will point up and towards the side seam.

Next, mark the stitching line on the wrong side of the pocket bearer, 1cm from the edge. Pin the pocket bearer to the front along the stitching line, the right sides together.

Sew the pocket bearer along the stitch line at 1cm, starting and finishing exactly at each end of the stitching line. This is 1cm from each end.

Cut the welt pocket open through the centre of the pocket opening, finishing 2cm before each end. Then clip into each corner to create a ‘Y’ shape. Be careful not to clip past the stitching, or through your stitching.

Pull the welt and pocket bag through to the wrong side.

Fold the pocket back to reveal the triangle that was formed when you cut the pocket open. Gently pull it so it sits flat and pin it to the welt. Sew the triangle and the welt together along the edge of the pocket opening you marked at the beginning of this step. Do the same for the other side of the pocket. Give your pocket a press and check that all is sitting nicely.

Next, fold the pocket bag in half with the right sides together. Pin the free end of the pocket bag to the raw edge of the welt then sew them together.

Give your pocket another press.

Repeat for the other side, to create a pair of pockets.

In the next section we will attach the sleeves and under collar, then sew the side seams.

Step 3 — Sleeves, Under Collar and Side Seams

Sleeves

With the right sides together, pin the front sleeve to the back sleeve along the upper edge. Sew the seam at 1cm.

Press the seam open and repeat for the other sleeve.

Now pin the front sleeve to the front, right sides together and matching the notches. Sew at 1cm.

Next, pin the back sleeve to the back with the right sides together and matching the notches. Sew at 1cm.

Repeat for the other sleeve and then press all four seams open.

Step 4 — Sew the Lining, Facings and Collar

Lining

With the right sides together, pin the two back lining pieces together. Sew the seam at 1cm. Press your seam as sewn.

At the centre back neck notch, sew down 2cm parallel to the centre back seam.

Press the seam to one side and then baste the excess at the neckline edge, to create a pleat in the lining.

With the right sides together, pin the front sleeve lining to the back sleeve lining along the upper edge. Sew the seam at 1cm.

Repeat for the other sleeve. Press the seams open.

Pin the back sleeve lining to the back lining with the right sides together and matching the notches. Sew at 1cm.

Now pin the front sleeve lining to the front lining, right sides together and matching the notches. Sew at 1cm.

Repeat for the other side then press all four seams open.

With the right sides together, pin the front lining to the back lining at the side seam. Match the notches and the seams. Sew the side seam at 1cm.

Repeat for the other side, leaving an opening of 20-30cm in the sleeve for turning your coat out at the end. Press the seams open.

Facings

We will now sew the facings. At each corner on the front facing at the neckline, sew a line of stitching 1cm from the edge to reinforce corners where collar turns on fronts. Clip into the corner to release the seam allowance. This will allow you to manoeuvre the pieces when sewing the collar.

Pin the front facing to the back neck facing at the shoulder. Sew with a 1cm seam and then press the seams open.

Pin the facing to the lining with the right sides together and matching the notches and seams.

Starting at the notch halfway down one front, sew the lining and facing together with a 1cm seam, finishing at the notch on the other front. The lower edges of the lining and facing will be finished later.

Press the seam towards to lining.

Collar

Now we will sew the collar.

With the right sides together, pin the top collar to the collar stand, matching the notches.

Sew the top collar and collar stand together. Take care not to create any tucks.

Clip into the top collar seam allowance and then press the seam open.

With the right sides together, pin the top collar to the facing.

As you did with the under collar, start at the notch at one end of the top collar and sew the two pieces together with a 1cm seam. When you reach a corner, stop with your needle down and raise the presser foot. Pivot your coat and continue sewing to the next corner. Stop with your needle down once again. Pivot your coat once more and continue to the end of the top collar.

Press the seam open. It's now time to attach the lining to your coat!

Step 5 — Attach lining to Coat

We will start by attaching the lining to your coat at the cuffs.

Make sure the cuff edge on the lining is turned back 2.5cm, as per the pre-pressing steps you made at the beginning. Then turn your coat and lining inside out. and lay them side by side with fronts face up.

Slide the sleeve lining inside the sleeve until the raw edge of the lining cuff meets the raw edge of the main coat cuff. Pin the raw edges together and then sew with a 1cm seam. You will sew through one layer of lining and one layer of the main coat fabric. The fold of the lining will sit inside the sleeve.

To attach the second cuff, lay the coat main and the lining back to back. Then, slide the sleeve lining inside the cuff as you did for the first sleeve. Take your time to ensure the lining is not twisted! Now sew the lining and the main coat together.

Next, we will attach to coat and lining at the centre front.

Pin the front facing to the main coat front with the right sides together. Now sew them together with a 1cm seam. When you reach the collar seam, sew as far as you comfortably can. It can be tricky to sew in close at this point when working with heavier fabrics. The seams should align but they do not need to touch.

Repeat for the other side. The sleeves might look slightly awkward at this point, but it will all come together soon!

Trim each lapel curve to approximately 5mm.

Now pin the top collar to the under collar with the right sides together. Sew the collar with a 1cm seam. Again, sew as far as you comfortably can as you reach the interesting seams.

Now trim the collar curves to about 5mm.

Turn the coat right side out the give it a press.

When pressing the centre front edges, gently roll the front facing towards the main front around the curved lapel. At the lower, straight edge, gently roll the facing towards the inside of the coat as you press.

When pressing the collar, roll the top collar gently towards the under collar.

Now we will attach the top collar and under collar at the neck edge.

Turn the coat inside out again.

With the wrong sides of the collar together, pin the facing seam allowance to the collar seam allowance along the entireneck edge.

Sew the facing to the body within the seam allowance, to close up the collar.

Now it is time to attach the lining to the main coat at the hem.

First, at each corner on the coat body at the hem, sew a line of stitching 1cm from the edge to reinforce corners. Clip into the corner to release the seam allowance. This will allow you to manoeuvre the pieces when finishing the hem.

With the right sides together, pin the lining to coat body at hem. Leave the front facing free at this point.

Sew the lining and main coat hems together with a 1cm seam.

Fold the lining back 2.5cm with the wrong sides together, matching the hem notch on the lining to the seam you have just sewn. The pre-pressing steps you made at the beginning will help with this. Baste the fold in place within the seam allowance where the hem steps down on the main front.

Now it is time to finishing sewing the front facings.

At the centre front hem, fold the seam allowance towards the front facing and pin.

Continue pinning the front facing to the main coat front at the hem edge, stopping when you reach the point where the hem steps down

Starting at the centre front, sew across the hem at 1cm. Stop with your needle down 1cm before the edge of the front facing, at the corner where you released the seam allowance. Make sure you stop with your needle going through both layers. Lift your presser foot, then pivot and rearrange your coat so you are ready to sew the rest of the facing to the front lining. Lower your presser foot and complete the seam.

Repeat for the other side.

Turn out your coat through the hole in the sleeve lining.

Your coat is now ready for the finishing touches!

Step 6 — Finishing touches

Fold up the hem as per your pre-pressing at the beginning. Line up the side seams and pin them in place. Ditch stitch 2-3 cm at each side seam, holding the lining out of the way as you sew.

Next, fold up the cuff as per your pre-pressing steps at the beginning. Line up the sleeve seams and ditch stitch 2-3 cm in each seam to secure the cuff hem. Again, hold the lining out of the way as you don’t sew over it.

Align the shoulder seam on the sleeve and the shoulder seam on the facing, under the collar. Pin them in place then ditch stitch 3-4cm to secure the facing.