Assembling Your Robe
09—July 2020
The last of our Lucie Robe Sew-Along, in this post, we're putting all the pieces together! We'll guide you through attaching the shoulders, collar and sleeves as well as hemming your sleeves and body.
First, we need to attach the shoulders...
Take one front piece and pin it, right sides together, to the back at the shoulder seam. Make sure to match the notch. Do the same with the other side. Sew each shoulder with a 1cm seam allowance, removing the pins as you come to them, as pictured above. Back tack at the beginning and end of the seam.
Neaten each seam with your overlocker/serger or a zig-zag stitch. Press the seams to the back.
Next we will attach the collar to the body of the robe. The collar will encase the seam at the neck opening.
Firstly, pin the un-pressed edge of your collar to the neckline of the body. The right side of the collar will be facing the wrong side of the body. Make sure the notches and seams on the collar match the notches and seams on the body.
Next, sew the collar and body together with a 1cm seam allowance, removing the pins as you come to them. Take extra care to match the notches and centre back seams of the collar and body as you sew. Back tack at the beginning and end of the seam. Press the seam allowance in, towards the collar.
Fold the collar in half, wrong sides together, along the pre-pressed fold line. Tuck the folded edge under towards the inside of the collar, taking your time to get the point where the collar and centre front meet folded under neatly. Pin closed from the front, again making sure to match the notches and seams.
Finally, in this step, carefully edge stitch the collar closed at 3mm, with the right side facing up, removing the pins as you get to them. Back tack at the beginning and end of this seam.
Next, move on to attaching your sleeves and sewing up your side seams below!
Pin the sleeve head to the body with the right sides together and matching the notches. The single notch indicates the front of the garment, and the double notch indicates the back. Sew your sleeve to the body with a 1cm seam back tacking at the beginning and end.
Neaten your seam with your overlocker/serger, then press your seam towards the sleeve. Repeat for the other sleeve.
Now we will sew the side seams!
With your right sides together, pin your front panel to the back along the side edge, matching notches and seams.
Stitch your sides seams together using a 1cm seam, removing the pins as you come to them and back tacking at the beginning and end. Keep the sleeve hem and body hem unfolded as you sew, you will fold them back up in the next steps. When you get to the pocket be careful not to catch it in your side seam. You can pin it back or use your hand to keep of the way as you get to it.
After sewing the side seam, carefully clip into the seam allowance at the underarm curve with a sharp pair of scissors. Clip 3 times, with each clip approximately 2cm apart. Be very careful not to clip your stitches! This will release some tension and allow the seam to spread cleanly when you turn your robe right side out.
Neaten the seam with your overlocker/serger, steam lightly and repeat for the other side.
Turn the sleeve hem seam allowance under 1cm then back another 4cm as indicated by the notches. The pressing you did at the very beginning will help with this. You can press again at this point to get a nice crisp edge before sewing. Stitching on the wrong side, edge stitch the entire circumference of the hem closed, 3mm from the edge of the fold. At the end of your seam, stitch over the first couple of stitches you sewed to complete the hem. It is only necessary to back tack at the end of this seam. Remember to remove the pins when you come to them.
Give your sleeve hem another press and repeat for the other sleeve.
Moving back down to the body hem now, turn under the 1cm seam allowance, then turn back another 4cm for the hem as indicated by the notches, and pressed at the beginning. Matching up the seams, pin the hem in place. You can press your hem again here to ensure everything is sitting nicely before sewing.
Starting a couple of stitches back from where you left off in step 1f., continue your edge stitch across the entire hem until you reach the other side. Remove your pins as you sew and back tack at the beginning and end of this seam.
Press your hem again.
Give your robe a final press, clip your threads and pop in your waist tie. Your robe is now complete!
Have a question? Contact us via patterns@thefabricstore.co.nz
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