Collar, Back Panels and Waist Tie
09—July 2020
Following on from Step 5, we now assemble the collar, back panels and waist tie!
Pin the two collar pieces together at the centre back, keeping the 1cm on the long edge you pressed at the beginning out flat. Sew this seam using a 1cm seam allowance. When you reach the centre crease, stop with your needle down and pivot slightly to ensure your collar will sit nicely when you fold it. Press this seam open.
Bag out each end of the collar with a 1cm seam allowance, again making sure the 1cm seam allowance on the long edge is sitting flat.
Turn out the ends, using your point turner or awl again to gently ease out the corners. Give your collar a gentle press. Put your assembled collar aside with your fronts, ready for later.
Next we will work on the back panels!
Take your back pieces and neaten each centre back edge separately using your overlocker/serger or a zig zag stitch. If you are using an overlocker, make sure you don’t cut away the fabric as you neaten the seams. With the right sides together, pin the two pieces along the centre back edge matching the notches. Sew them together with a 1cm seam, removing the pins when you come to them. Back tack at the beginning and end.
Press the centre back seam open.
In the same way that you folded your waist tie loops, fold the long edge of your back neck tab piece to meet in the centre and then in half again as pressed at the beginning. Edge stitch to close at 3mm. Fold the back neck tab piece to create a loop and pin this to the wrong side at the centre back neck edge. Stay stitch to hold it in place.
Pop your completed back pieces aside with the collar and fronts, we'll come back to them later!
To sew your waist tie, firstly sew the two waist tie pieces with right sides together along the short edge using a 1cm seam. Press this seam open. Next, fold the waistband in half along the long edge with the right sides together, this is the opposite to how it was pressed at the beginning. Pin along the edge, matching the notches and waist tie seam. Sew down one short end, then, stopping 1cm from the edge with the needle down, pivot 90 degrees and sew along the long edge. Back tack at the beginning and end and remove the pins as you come to them. Leave the other end open.
Trim the corner where you turned 90 degrees, being careful not to cut your stitches, then turn your waist tie right side out. A knitting needle or chop stick may be helpful here!
Tuck the 1cm seam allowance in at the open end, as was pressed at the beginning. Pin, then edge stitch it closed, back tacking at the beginning and end. Alternatively, you can invisibly hand sew this opening closed. Give your waist tie a good press, making sure that the tie folds along the seam.
Put your waist tie aside until the end.
Phew, well done, next up is assembling all the pieces together!
